As every surfer comes to find out, that there is no such thing as a perfect board. Maybe a magic board or one that works really well in certain waves and conditions. When starting out as a beginner you want to pick a board that is a little wider, floats a bit more than the normal short board, and may be a little thicker. This will make it a little easier for a beginner to paddle and actually stand up on waves. When I started surfing, which was around 7-8 years ago I rode a 5'11 fish, which was about 19 1/4 inch wide and 2 1/4 thick. I weighted about 160lbs and was 6'0; I know not the average board for me but it worked really well. This board got beat up, cracked, water logged, you name it and it had been through it. I actually sold this board a while back to a friend who was starting out surfing, and think he still has it. So, when starting out find a board that will make it easier for you to learn, isn't that the whole idea?
After you have learned the basics of surfing (going down the line, pumping, turning, stalling, etc.) and you are feeling like your ready to move up and try something new then upgrade it a little. Look for the average short board, which is usually an inch or two taller than you and about 18 1/4 inch wide and 2 1/8 inch thick. This board will allow for quicker tighter turns, faster down the line speed, and overall maneuverability. It will take a little getting used to in the beginning, I know it did for me, but after a few surfs on it you will start feeling more comfortable and realize how much easier it is to ride. What you loose in paddling power you will gain in speed while riding the wave.
So, you have mastered the basics and find yourself looking for that added edge out in the water. Your board really isn't holding up and nothing in the surf shop seems to interest you. By now you may have met a shaper out in the water or someone you know that can order you custom boards. I stress this, "Make sure you investigate the shaper and the boards, ask how others like them, how they hold up, anything and everything, and most of all try to stay close to what you are used to at first." I made the mistake and looked at what others were riding and thought I would like that better, well that didn't work! So I had a board that I didn't really like. Money lost! I sold it and ended up knowing someone that knew and worked with the guys from Ghetto House Glassing (Lost Shapes) and was able to order another custom board. Well this thing blew me away! Having a board that is made for your size, weight and level of performance is amazing. This board allowed me to do anything I wanted on a wave. It was also a step in a good direction for further board shapes. So after several custom boards and some store bought's, I really know what I am looking at and what I will like just from inspecting the board. It helps to know some things about surf boards too, like the concave, rocker, tail, rails, and overall shape. This will help narrow and get a board specifically for what you want and will be surfing on a daily bases.
As of now I have two boards that I regularly surf, one is a 5'6 rocket and the other is a 6'0 squash slight diamond tail Chilli that is amazing. I also have a 6'5 rounded pin for summer trips when knowing I will be surfing some much bigger and heavier waves than Florida. Right now I have another board on my mind and what it will be for my next purchase hopefully in the near future before any trips are made.
Now, learn as much as possible about surf boards before you buy, and don't think you can ride a board way smaller than what you normally ride unless you have tried a few. The best way to see what you like is to ask a friend if you can surf their board. And if we are lucky you can make your own, which is the best way if you know what your looking at and good with your hands.
Dane Reynolds magicboard from Surf in Italy on Vimeo.
Dane Raynolds trickkeggia con il vecchio giallone di Rob Machado...
